Day 1: LIS airport to downtown Lisbon (9km)

It couldn’t have gone more smoothly, except for the sleep deprivation due to our jet lag!
Landed in Lisbon around 8am local time and breezed through Customs and Immigration. Because we had a one-way ticket, we were a little concerned they may demand proof of onward travel out of the Schengen visa zone, so we “rented” a return ticket on FlyOnward.com, but we never were asked to show it. Nice to have for the piece of mind, but unnecessary.

It was our first time putting our bikes together after 5 amazing lessons from a generous bicycle mechanic friend. We found a quiet corner near the parking garage and started unboxing the bikes. Aside from a glance from a few security guards, no one gave us any trouble. One woman asked us about our trip and was very excited to hear about it. It took us about 3 hours to do both bikes. We asked someone at the lost & found luggage department where to leave the empty boxes, and he said he’d take care of them for us, great!

The ride into town was a bit tricky as we got used to the way the bike paths are laid out; they seem to appear and disappear at random, either dumping you off on the sidewalk or at a crosswalk. I’m glad we mapped the route ahead of time on the GPS. Pedestrians were courteous but seemed surprised to see us in the bike lanes, where they walked by default, though we weren’t the only bikes. Auto traffic was much more friendly than we expected after repeated warnings by friends about the horrible Portuguese drivers; I think riding in Boston is scarier! The scenery riding through town was fantastic, and we couldn’t have asked for better weather, slightly overcast and 24°C.

We spent the remaining evening having late lunch at an over-priced tourist trap restaurant next to our pensão and wandered around town sipping as much espresso as we could to keep from falling asleep when we sat down.

Enjoyed our first of many pastel de nata; they are as delicious and crispy as everyone told us, OMG! Found a great food court (Time Out) so we could eat a few appetizers in lieu of dinner, since we planned to be in bed by 8, when all the restaurants open.

Stumbled onto a very friendly bicycle shop who replaced Steve’s water bottle cage that broke in San Diego and hooked us up with some spare nipples for our wheels, the one spare parts item we’d not had time to get before our trip.

My biggest anxiety was about getting our bicycles to Lisbon in one piece, so from here on, it should be smooth sailing!

We are going to explore Lisbon a few more days, and then Saturday we ride inland towards Evora, and we are starting to look up camping options along the way. Stay tuned!

It’s not really about Steve & me, now

I’ve been trying to figure out how to express this idea, and I’m not sure I’ve done a good job, but let me try.

Today, we are at an inflexion point where everything changes. Tomorrow, everything shifts instantly from being about planning and preparation to being about experiencing and sharing. In a way, it’s no longer about us and the things we’re doing; it becomes about a shared experience in communities we have yet to discover.
Instead of boring our friends with our endless details of plans and training, we will now begin to enjoy the stories of others, the feelings of other environments, and the cultures we know little about.

Instead of riding our bicycles to prepare our bodies, we will begin to ride our bicycles to visit other places and connect with other people.

Instead of ticking off tasks from our To Do list, we will start living in the moment, trusting in the unknown, and joining others in their goals.

All this is good because, frankly, we are getting tired of talking about ourselves and looking forward to talking about more interesting things!

Everything is about to change, and to answer the most common question we’re asked: no, we probably aren’t ready, but we’re doing it anyway!

Our Last Ride in the USA

We just got home from our last bicycle ride in the USA for quite some time. I wanted to blog about it as I hope we continue to do on our tour, so here it is.

Stopped by Coffee Cycle near Fiesta Island where this amazing guy Chris has been making some of the best coffee you’ll find in San Diego (not exaggerating) out of his bicycle-powered custom-built cart. Adios Chris!

Not sure how much longer this little shack has in Ocean Beach, but I’ll bet they enjoy the view.

Always thought this sign was funny, given that this school is on one of the most difficult streets in our training routes in San Diego, Hill St, which hits a 18-19% grade.

How much more California can you stand, with this awesome tie-dyed van and my jersey?!

Video Production on our tour

On this trip, we are hoping to step up our video production game a bit. On our last tour, our videos consisted mostly of us talking into the camera. It captured some real emotions and pretty backdrops at times, but they weren’t very captivating!

So I set out to see what we could produce solely using apps on our Android phones. After playing with a few video editing apps, I settled on two: PowerDirector and VideoShow Pro. I’m pretty amazed at the powerful features in both of these apps for about $10 for both. We also used Microsoft Hyperlapse to stabilize and speed up parts of the video.

Here’s the result! Click the link to watch our first real YouTube video for this tour.
It’s not going to win any awards, and we both think we sound like dorks, but I think it’s an improvement. Hopefully we’ll get better with time. Happy to hear your honest feedback.

It’s Not Always Going To Be Perfect

In this social media age, we tend to exaggerate the positive and distress about the negative.

The truth is: We will have bad days. We will get flat tires. We will get delayed in travel. We will have things stolen; we may even get robbed. We will have things broken. We will get sick. People will disappoint us, maybe even mislead or con us. Some places will not be like we’d hoped; we will find some things inhospitable despite our most open minds and positive attitudes.

But what it’s important to understand is: that’s not the point at all. The whole reason we are taking this adventure in the way we are choosing to do it is NOT to find the”perfect” experience, or even a comfortable one. It’s to find genuine experience. And genuine experiences are not always nice. But, they are the ones we will remember for our lifetime. They are the ones that will teach us something. They are the ones, arguably the only ones, that will make us grow as human beings.

Our goal will be to tell you about these experiences as honestly as we can, good and bad. We are looking forward to the adventure!

Downsizing “it’s just STUFF”

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The photo with my name on the side of the totes is what I’m putting in storage with my good friend Russ that offered as we pedal the world for the next 2 years.  The photo with the couch and boxes is when I stored all my “STUFF” in my friend Ann’s garage for 3 months when I moved to San Francisco in 2011.  

The process of downsizing in the last 6 months since our cycling tour last summer from Canada to Mexico has been freeing and enlightening to say the least.  While we were on that tour, there was very few things “stuff” that we missed besides the kitties, and for me the comforts of a good cup of coffee every morning to an extra pillow to sleep with.  I realized on that trip that I had everything I needed to be comfortable and I was carrying it all on my bike from my clothes to shelter in my one man quarter dome tent.  

The process getting to the 10 totes has been both prosperous and rewarding.  Prosperous in the sense of all the “stuff” I/we sold on OfferUp (a local selling app), and eBay.  We’ve sold a sofa, piano, queen bed, and other furniture to many smaller electronic items like an old film camera, to an iPhone 6, and kitchen appliances.  Rewarding in the sense that we’ve donated a ton of our “stuff” (dining table & chairs, clothes, and trinkets) to Auntie Helens here in San Diego that supports HIV/AIDS services to our local community.  We’ve also given a lot of our “stuff” (bedding, kitchen gadgets, and clothes) to several friends.  I can honestly say I don’t remember everything that is gone now and don’t miss anything that we’ve sold or donated.  

So what’s in the totes with my name on the side you might ask and what did you decide to keep?  I just had to keep my first cycling helmet that I pedaled 8000 plus miles with in 2016, and the Cubs t-shirt I wore to Spring Training in AZ and all throughout the season and World Series.  I also kept two blankets and a scarf my Mom has crocheted for me over the years.  I also kept old photos and albums as opposed to scanning all my pictures like Tim did….I’m just too “old school” I guess and will like looking through the physical pictures when I’m 90.  I also kept old letters from my Uncle Ed when he was in Indonesia for 30 plus years, magazines that my sister has been featured in for her design work over the years, t-shirts from fundraising walks I’ve done over the years to AIDS/LifeCycles I’ve been a part of in the past two years and where Tim and I officially met.   The totes will be like time machines when we return after pedaling 4 continents around the WORLD.  I’ll most likely wonder why I kept some “stuff” and downsize even more. 

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How to plan a 2-year cycling trip

Some friends have asked how do we plan where we are going to go, where to stay, and what to do?

The number one goal for us is to be open and flexible. If we love a place or its people, we will stay longer. If we learn about a new place to see, we will make a detour. If we run out of time on our visa or want a change of scenery, we’ll hop on a train and fast forward.

But a secondary goal is to be able to wake up in the morning and not have to make a plan if we don’t want to. Just be in the moment and enjoy the day.

To accomplish that, I’ve made two outlines of our trip. The first is a very general country-by-country list that includes information on the visa rules, climate, and any random notes that we’ve found about things to see, roads to ride, etc.
The second document splits up the entire trip into segments of about 100-300km. Each segment has turn-by-turn directions, specific things to see, lodging options, places to eat, etc. Most of these are empty right now and we will fill them in along the way as we meet locals and get advice.

I chose Google Docs to store these lists because it’s easily editable on my phone or laptop, and I can share it with Steve so he can edit it also. In addition, you can access and edit the docs offline so we can work on the plan even without an internet connection.

I think it’s important not to plan too much! By planning the turn-by-turn directions for the first entire year, we satisfy the second goal of allowing us to just go with the flow when we want to. By leaving the details of each segment empty and by keeping the document editable, we satisfy the first goal of allowing for spontaneous diversions and changes.

Since we don’t know what tomorrow might bring, it’s difficult to plan lodging very far ahead. But since we have camping gear with us, we have lots of options for finding last-minute places to stay, including wild camping if it comes down to it. From what we’ve heard, most campgrounds in Europe will allow cyclists to stay without a reservation, and when we can, we will book WarmShowers guest houses or other accommodations a day or two in advance.

This strategy worked really well on our last tour, so I’m hoping it keeps us happy this time around too!

We Have a Logo!

Huge thanks to our amazing friend, AIDS/LifeCycle teammate, and graphic artist, David Lowe, for helping us design this awesome logo, which perfectly captures our jaunt across the globe.

Everyone asks about the solar panels we have mounted on our backpacks, so I love how it’s featured in the logo! The palm trees and waves remind us of our home in San Diego as well as depict the mostly-coastal route we are planning to ride over the next two years.

We are printing a bunch of these stickers and are looking forward to handing them out to folks we meet along the way!

Tim’s Full Pack List

After 3 full-loaded test runs, we now have a pretty good idea of exactly what we’re bringing with us. I recently posted a video showing all of the gear I’m planning to bring, and I wanted to go into a little more detail for those who are curious.

We enjoyed touring with a very lightweight setup on our last tour, so our aim is to stay as lightweight as possible, but we have made a few exceptions to this rule for comfort, safety, convenience, and appearance. I think it will be interesting to see how we adjust our gear over the next two years, but so far we are pretty happy with this setup.

For comfort and appearance, we added a wider variety of clothing, including Bluffworks travel slacks, a nice polo so we might be able to have a nice dinner at a restaurant from time to time, and a Patagonia jacket to stay warm.

For safety, we added a number of USB-chargable lights and additional reflective material. We also added a lightweight water purification system to make sure we can have access to clean water when we are far away from public water supplies. In addition, we beefed up our first aid kit quite a bit to include better bandages and a few days supply of many medications that we may need (e.g. antibiotics).

For convenience, we switched from ad-hoc Velcro straps to a proper adventure gear system from Specialized, which makes it much easier to load and unload our bikes. We also upgraded to a freestanding tent that takes much less time to setup and doesn’t require stake-able ground.

All of this added some weight, and so far, we think it’s worth the trade-off. Although we love cycling and love the handling of a lightweight bike, this tour is more about smelling the roses versus riding fast.

So here’s my full list:

Cycling clothing

  • Bike shoes (820g) – Our Giro cycling shoes will double as our walking shoes.
  • Cycling shorts (160g)
  • Cycling jersey (195g) – I’m still trying to decide whether to bring a wool jersey or Spandex. The wool one resists odors better and is warmer, but the Spandex is quicker to dry and doesn’t spot up when I sweat a lot.
  • Prescription sunglasses + mirror (35g)
  • Gloves (45g)
  • Helmet (325g)
  • Socks (40g)
  • Sweatband (10g)
  • Road ID (10g)

Cold/wet cycling clothing

  • Arm warmers (60g)
  • Heavy wool socks (75g)
  • Cycling cap (25g)
  • Ultralight rain jacket (50g)

Off-bike clothing

  • Merino wool underwear, 3 pair (165g)
  • Lightweight shorts (175g)
  • Heavy-duty cargo shorts (385g)
  • Bluffworks travel slacks (395g)
  • 2 tee-shirts (245g)
  • Polo (155g)
  • Socks, 2 pair (60g)
  • Swim trunks – still need to find a good pair
  • Patagonia jacket (335g)
  • Cap (35g)
  • Sandals, Xero Amuri Z-Trek (405g) – these are great for walking/hiking in warm weather

Shelter

  • ZPacks Duplex 2-person tent (605g)
  • Stand-alone poles (305g)
  • 48″ poles x 2 (100g) – for non-freestanding setup; we may decide to skip these altogether
  • Tent stakes x 12 (105g) – for non-freestanding setup
  • 40F down sleeping bag (415g)
  • Thermarest pad (360g)

Security/safety

  • TiGr bike lock (740g)
  • Front light (75g)
  • Rear light x 2 (140g)
  • Reflective straps (65g)

Bags, containers

  • Water bottles, 32 oz x 2 (215g)
  • Camelbak Lobo 100 oz (640g)
  • Specialized Handlebar mounting system (360g)
  • Specialized dry bag for handlebar mount (160g)
  • Specialized Stabilizer seat bag (530g)
  • Top tube bag, front (140g)
  • Top tub bag, rear (120g)
  • Frame bag (125g)
  • Food/extras bag (105g) – this is a lightweight backpack-like canvas bag we can use to carry take-out food and other supplies short distances

Cooking

  • Water purification system + tablets (310g)
  • Mini lighter (10g)
  • Spork (10g)
  • Titanium stove (25g)
  • Titanium cup (75g)
  • Cooking chopsticks (30g) – rated up to 500F, great for use when grilling on a camp fire
  • Travel wine bottle opener (20g)

Medical

  • Emergency medications and antibiotics (150g) – includes Tylenol, Imodium, Ibuprofen, Colace, Azithromycin, Cipro, Amoxicillin, Zyrtec, Benadryl
  • Basic first-aid kit (135g) – includes gloves, bandages, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, antibiotic ointment, steri strips
  • Extended first-aid kit (165g) – includes safety pins, gauze pads, antibacterial soap, povidone iodine, irrigation syringe, athletic tape, athletic wrap, transparent wound dressing, tinctures of benzoin
  • Salt tablets

Toiletries

  • Wet wipes, for “emergencies” (60g)
  • Tooth brush (camping), paste, and floss (50g)
  • Micro-fiber camp towel (20g)
  • Bar soap (120g) – use this for washing body, hair, shaving, etc.
  • Sunscreen (30g)
  • Lip balm (5g)
  • Extra contact lenses (20g)
  • Prescription glasses and case (185g)
  • Nail clippers (15g)
  • Deodorant (30g)
  • Deet bug spray (45g)
  • Roll of toilet paper (75g) – for India and Asia
  • Electric trimmer + USB rechargeable batteries + blades (145g) – The Gilette Fusion Proglide is pretty lightweight and very compact and also has an attachment for razors. Combined with USBCELL MXAA02 AA Rechargable Batteries, we don’t need to carry spare batteries and can simply recharge these as we go.
  • Reusable paper towels (15g)

Tools / Repair / Extras

  • Mini tool with hex wrenches, chain tool, and spoke wrench (175g)
  • Individual longer-handled hex wrenches and screwdriver (45g)
  • Pliers/wire cutter (115g) – will try to find a lighter one
  • Lots of patch kits (10g)
  • Chain lube, 1/4 oz (15g)
  • Teflon grease (5g)
  • Tire irons (25g)
  • Spare tubes x 3 (425g)
  • Spare folding tire (270g)
  • Extra disc brake pads x 2 (55g)
  • Extra cleats and bolts (55g)
  • Gorilla tape + electrical tape (20g)
  • Super glue (5g)
  • Camping knife (20g)
  • Frame pump (115g)
  • Large binder clips x 4 (95g)
  • Extra spokes x 8 (65g)
  • Extra chain links and pins (10g)
  • CR 2032 batteries x 4 (10g) – for head lamp, watch, etc.
  • Presta/Shrader valve adapter x 2 (10g)
  • Derailleur hanger x 2 (30g)
  • Cuben fiber repair tape (45g) – various sizes, strengths, and sided-ness – this stuff is amazing for patching anything, including sacks, our tent, sleeping pad, etc.
  • Extra zip ties, velcro, clothes line, elastic cord, zippers, hooks, etc (180g)
  • Safety pins (20g)
  • Bicycle shoe cleat covers (15g)
  • Extra watch strap (15g)

Electronics

  • Phone + case (185g)
  • Bike computer/GPS (135g)
  • Point-and-shoot digital camera (305g)
  • Kindle (185g)
  • 16,850 mAh USB battery pack (295g)
  • USB-C adapters and cables (45g) – for charging cell phone
  • Headlamp (25g)
  • International power adapter with USB ports (110g)
  • Suntactics 5W (5V x 1A) solar charger
  • Ear buds (5g)
  • Camera case (95g)
  • Extra camera batteries (115g)
  • Camera charger (65g)

Miscellaneous

  • Waterproof wallet & credit cards (55g)
  • Waterproof passport holder (25g)
  • Passport (35g)
  • Bike lock key (15g)
  • Bottle opener (5g)
  • Pens and Sharpie (5g)
  • Zip lock freezer bags (5g)
  • Extra copies of ID, extra passport photos for visas, in waterproof container (70g)
  • Sewing kit with thread & needles (25g)
  • Tiny camp light (15g)

The total weight for me is somewhere between 13kg and 14kg, plus food and water. Steve’s is closer to 10kg. We will shift more weight to the faster rider as we go to keep us riding about the same speed and keep us together. Currently that means I’m carrying a bit more.