Why can’t we be friends?

It was an interesting day in France today. The tension of the elections was ever present, lingering over every interaction with French people. Many other tourists seemed oblivious to what was going on, carefree in their photo taking, but almost every French speaker we saw was in serious conversations with friends and family about Le Pen and Macron, the police were out in huge numbers heavily armed with alarmingly large guns, and the mood was somber. This was an area that voted heavily for Le Pen, who was predicted to lose (and she did).

We enjoyed the sights of Nice, but I don’t think we really experienced its character due to this distraction. And I’m kind of thankful we will be in Italy tomorrow because I’m not typically a political person, and it will be refreshing to get away from all of this. At precisely 8pm, we were walking in the street, and an impromptu group got on a megaphone to announce the results and lament about someone with less than 25% support in the initial elections becoming president of France. Shortly after, someone walked up to us and urgently demanded something of me in French. The only words I caught were “Le Pen”. He was obviously upset. I stammered, and he repeated his demand louder. I managed to sputter “je ne comprends pas!” and he walked off muttering in an exasperated tone, “tu ne comprends pas !”

We are living in an era of human history with less violence than almost every before. People like you, me, and Steve are free and very safe to travel and experience with an open mind many other cultures all over the world, thanks to our mutual respect and support. And yet there are some who are still fearful, and I don’t understand why. Steve and I are finding the world is full of many amazing, generous, and happy people, and all it takes to be one of these people is to open your mind for a minute, listen, and respect others for who they are and what they do.

Politics aside, we enjoyed our day. It was a super easy ride, flat, on bike lanes along the coast to Nice. We had a nice lunch in Nice, did some exploring and lounged at the beach.

Okay, maybe just one more day in France…

It’s starting to feel more like a vacation now! We are taking our time here and enjoying life as tourists.

Whenever we stop somewhere for more than one night, we can’t help ourselves in the grocery stores. We end up buying way more than we need because our appetites are so big, and everything in the shops and markets looks so good, especially in France! We often end up carrying odd things on our bikes, like 500g of dried figs that I bought in Montpellier, France, or a bag of peanuts I’ve been carrying all the way from Portugal, or Camembert cheese we didn’t finish the night before (my bag smells kind of funky at the moment). The food never goes to waste; we usually eat it all, carry it on the bikes the next day, or donate it to the supplies in the AirBNB we’ve stayed at.

Antibes has been no exception; we’re making a salad tonight so will leave some honey mustard dressing with our AirBNB host, plus we’ve got enough French cheese to weigh us down well into Italy, too many croissants, eggs we’ll eat for breakfast, brownies we found at a farmer’s market this morning, and some savory puffed pastry delicacies we found at the local boulangerie that we ate for dinner. Oh la la! Still, even with all this copious eating, our belts are getting loose; we are feeling fit and trim! Loving this lifestyle.

Speaking of food, we took advantage of our kitchen in the AirBNB this morning to make some of my egg and cheese sandwiches, but with a French twist: fried eggs and Port Salut cheese on croissants.

Here’s the salad we made for dinner: fresh greens with cherry tomatoes, figs, oranges, chèvre, whole grain mustard, and honey.

After breakfast we went for a walk around town. I found a shop that sold all sorts of sewing supplies, and they had country flag patches, so I picked up all the ones I’m missing. Now to sew these onto my bag somewhere. I decided that patches would work better than the stickers, which are falling off already.

We stumbled on a farmer’s market with lots of amazing looking fresh produce and everything else. We couldn’t resist picking up two decadent brownies and stopping for a drink and people watching.

The rain that was forecast came on strong, starting with strong winds and hail and then continuing on and off all day with bouts of thunder and minor flooding in the streets. For lunch, we had a flower-themed restaurant recommendation from our AirBNB host, so we checked it out, and it was amazing (all the flowers served are edible).

Avoiding the rain, we visited the Picasso museum, which highlights a selection of his works made while he lived here in Antibes, one of the happier periods of his life. Afterwards, we went to the post card museum, which is really interested and underrated in my opinion. You must visit if you are in Antibes. The collection of thousands of post cards from the owner’s personal collection includes historic cards from the late 1800s and early 1900s, funny ones, really fancy ones, ones with gimmicks like built-in record players, and everything in between. We were the only visitors, so he happily gave us an amazing personal tour of the collection.

While preparing dinner, we were planning tomorrow’s ride when we realized a sad mistake we’d made. The Monaco tourist office (where we will get our passport stamped) is only open 11am-1pm on Sunday. That wouldn’t give us enough time to see Nice. We had planned to see Nice, Eze, Monaco, get our passport stamped, cross into Italy, and camp tomorrow. There’s no camping or affordable lodging near Monaco, and we don’t want to rush to Monaco or to backtrack that far, so we made the decision to have a very short 20km day tomorrow and stay in Nice, where we will have more time to explore before heading to Italy on Monday.

Clowning around

Our campground had a convenience store next door, and at 7:30am, they got a delivery of still-warm croissants and pain au chocolat. As often as possible, this is how we start our mornings in France. I’m going to miss the croissants…

It was another beautiful day riding along the Cote d’Azur, though today we had fewer bike lanes, but not bad traffic overall, especially light in the very scenic coastal sections, but really busy after Cannes.

Thanks to our friend Darin, we had the right accessory to go with this selfie…

Steve wanted a croque monsieur for lunch at some place with a view, so we hunted around and found a cute restaurant at a quiet marina, where we shared lunch with what seemed to be a mixture of the local elite plus crewmen from the billionaire yachts anchored there. It was perfect!

We have an AirBNB in Antibes for two nights due to a 100% rain forecast for tomorrow. We are taking a rest day and visiting museums until the rain lets up, which should be Sunday.

All of France is abuzz about the elections Sunday. Half of the conversations I overheard on the street or in restaurants include Le Pen, Macron, Hollande, etc. I don’t understand enough French to get a feeling for how people are leaning, but there’s definitely a feeling of anxious anticipation right now…

After a light dinner in our AirBNB, we checked out the buzzing nightlife in town, including a few absinthe drinks at Absinthe Bar, quite tasty, and with an energetic pianist playing fun hits.

Easy mode

If you are ever interested in trying out bicycle touring, then we’ve found the perfect place to do it: the French Riviera is a bicycle tourist’s dream. Dedicated and well-signed bike lanes, friendly locals, English speakers everywhere, great food, amazing scenery, and campgrounds every few miles that don’t require reservations and are under 20€ per night. We could complain about the weird weather, which alternated from hot and sunny to chilly and drizzly, but I don’t think we’re allowed.

We are going to be so spoiled after a few more days like this. I hope we can force ourselves to keep moving because I want to see the rest of the world too!

We basically just cycled and did some sightseeing until we were ready to camp, which was near St. Maxime, and then we picked up stuff for dinner at a grocery store and found the next campground along the route that looked pretty good, a small beach-side place with all the expected amenities for €17. We had to take advantage of the beach, so a picnic on the beach watching the sunset was planned.

Back in the saddle on the Cote d’Azur

We were sad to leave our friends this morning but very happy to be back on the bikes and headed towards out on our next ride.

The next few weeks we will be Cote d’Azur, thé French Riviera, followed by the Italian Riviera. We rode mostly inland today towards the coast, avoiding Marseille.

At the top of our final hill, we found a dirt trail on the side of the road and followed it down about 500m to find a stunning view of the coast. We sat in the brush and made lunch from tuna and cheese we bought a few days ago and a baguette that Steve carried in his backpack from the previous town. Not a single car or person disturbed us while we enjoyed this amazing picnic, just a few ants, bees, and one helicopter zooming by far overhead.

We stopped in the port town of Toulon to enjoy a drink on the ocean front and write a few post cards. We are both thrilled to be back on the coast and looking forward to the mostly-coastal riding we have planned coming up.

Originally we were going to camp a few km east of Toulon, but we’d made good time, so we decided to go another 20km to the Giens Peninsula, where we found a perfect campground with an ocean view, secluded beaches, and a back packer special rate. The bike path from Toulon was spectacular! We rode most of the way completely separate from traffic, and the rest of the way along the beach with beautiful views of the ocean and many kite surfers.

We are glad that we’ve cut back on our daily distance, and today was very relaxed. We are happy to keep the focus on our exploration instead of the riding from now on.

Les Muguets

I can’t believe it’s May already. At the same time, it feels like we’ve been gone for ages.

One of the friends we are staying with is a native of Aix-en-Provence, so it was a real treat to have him show us the city today. It’s May Day and also France’s labor day, so many shops were closed except for flower shops selling lillies of the valley, or muguets.

We had a nice lunch at our friend’s favorite restaurant.

Here are some random photos from walking around Aix-en-Provence.

The weather forecast inland has taken a turn for the worse, with cold and rainy days predicted, so we’ve decided to stay one more day with our friends and then take the coastal route along the Cote d’Azur, where there is less rain and milder temperatures predicted. We are both ready to be back on the bikes but prefer to wait out tomorrow’s predicted rain showers so we can stay dry camping. It is also going to be hard to say good bye to our friends; it has been very good spending time with them.

I’ve also started working on our plan for June-August while we wait for our Schengen visa to renew. I’ve planned a possible trip from Dubrovnik, Croatia to Sarajevo, Bosnia that looks fascinating along a recently renovated cycling trail, and I’m going to start working on a new route after Albania since we will not have enough time to see Greece right now (we plan to come back after the visa resets). I’m thinking we will head east through Macedonia and Bulgaria to Romania, where we will pick up the already-planned route through Transylvania, and then possibly visit Serbia and/or western Ukraine before heading back into Hungary towards Germany.

Tomorrow I will continue this planning, and we will clean our bikes, catch up on some bike maintenance, and re-pack our bags for the next leg of our trip!

Crêpes

We just had probably the best crêpes I’ve ever had, thanks to my friend Yann. Delicious, merci!!

Paris au printemps

Flew up to Paris to explore the city for a day… Some photos and obligatory selfies…

An interesting baguette we saw in Le Marais district of Paris, near the Picasso museum that we visited on Sunday.

High tech route planning on-the-fly for cycle touring

In addition to our travelogue, I’m going to start making some posts describing our particular style of cycle touring, in case others may be interested in the more technical details of our trip. One of the things I love about cycle touring is that there are as many ways to have fun touring as there are tourists, and I think we are no exception. I hope our experience is useful to some of you. For the first article, I’m going to write about how we have planned our routes and the other options we considered.

Introduction and Goals

For a short tour, it’s possible to completely plan your route, your stops, etc. beforehand. For longer tours, it’s important to have the ability to be flexible and plan specific routes as you go. With modern smartphones and GPS units, it’s become easier to do this without bringing a laptop or lots of maps. I wanted to find a solution where I could plan very good routes both ahead of time and on-the-fly using just my smartphone and a GPS unit. The GPS unit needed to have the ability to follow a route and show turn-by-turn directions.

Cycle computer

Although I really liked the Garmin 1000, with its color touchscreen, it has a really clunky interface, and there’s no way way to send a route from your smartphone to the Garmin. Garmin has the bike GPS market almost locked up, but after some research, I found a good alternative! The Wahoo ELEMNT is a $350USD bike GPS with almost all the features of the Garmin 1000, plus it has a kick ass smartphone app that supports, among other power features, the ability to sync routes with several websites and also to send GPX and TCX routes directly from your smartphone!

I made the plunge and bought one, and I love it. The black and white screen is not as nice as the Garmin’s color touchscreen, but the route syncing and smartphone app more than make up for it. It also has better battery life in my experience, which is important since we are living on solar power for much of our tour.

Smartphone

The smartphone choice was more about worldwide internet coverage than route planning capabilities. I decided on Google Project Fi service in order to get coverage in 135 countries for roughly the same reasonable price. Cell phone coverage is important for the ability to plan routes even when WiFi is not available. This service only works with a select few Android phones, and I settled on the Nexus 5x for its lower cost and decent specs.

Websites for route planning

Now, the only thing left is to actually plan the routes to send to the GPS. There are several services I have been using to do this.

Strava – although the web site is not optimized for mobile, it does work okay to plan routes by going to www.strava.com/athletes/routes which you have to open in Chrome or Safari. Unfortunately there is no mobile app. It has been my favorite option because:

  • It syncs directly with the Wahoo ELEMNT (when on WiFi) and also with the smartphone app, so you can sync over cellular, and then later send to the ELEMNT even with no internet connection.
  • By default, it follows roads that Strava has found to be popular with cyclists. This means that you usually end up cycling on roads where actual cyclists go. This can be good and bad, so you have to pay some attention. In areas where mountain biking is popular, it will tend to pick off-road routes vs. paved routes, which has put us in some difficulty on our light touring bikes at times. In areas where racing groups are popular, it may pick really difficult climbs because that’s where the racers like to train. In commuting areas, it will often pick busy main streets rather than quiet more comfortable roads for touring. All that said, it will almost always pick a really decent route just by selecting a start and end point, and it’s relatively easy to add multiple routing points to go elsewhere. The heatmap overlay is very helpful to visually see where the popular routes are. Once you save the route, just sync the ELEMNT over WiFi (using your phone’s hotspot feature works), or sync the Wahoo app and then send the route over Bluetooth.

There are some down sides with Strava however. It is very fiddly to use on the phone, requiring good eyesight and very precise finger movement. It’s also somewhat buggy, sometimes locking up and requiring you to start over again. And it’s not possible on mobile to insert new way points into the route, making it tricky to adjust the route that is automatically calculated. It also requires you to use the frustrating “Manual Mode” sometimes for roads that it doesn’t know exists or roads that obviously connect together, but that it doesn’t realize do.

    Google maps – Google maps is an obvious choice for finding cycling directions. When you are online, it has an option to suggest cycling routes instead of driving. The routes are generally good, but they very strongly favor dedicated bike paths, including unpaved ones, so it can sometimes give directions not suitable for light touring bikes but good for mountain bikes. When you get the directions, you can either follow them on your phone, or you can send them to the ELEMNT using the following procedure:

    1. Select the option in Google Maps to share the route and select Copy to Clipboard.
    2. Paste the directions into a text editor, like Google Keep.
    3. Look for the link at the end of the directions posted that looks like https://goo.gl/maps/ABCDEFG. Copy this link.
    4. Visit https://mapstogpx.com and paste in the link into the field and tap the button to download the GPX file.
    5. Most of the time you can simply open the GPX file using the ELEMNT app, and it will import it immediately.
    6. Sometimes the ELEMNT app gives an error about an invalid GPX file. This can sometimes be solved by simplifying the GPX file by visiting http://m.gpsies.com and turning on the highest level of Route Simplication under Options. This will give a much smaller GPX file, which usually works better and with no noticeable loss of information.

    One unfortunate problem with this: Google maps often gives several route options, and you can select which one you want by tapping on it. However, mapstogpx.com will always only pick the first route option that Google gives, so it can be frustrating to get the route you want. One workaround is to add a secondary waypoint to force the first route suggestion to be the one you want.

      Find GPX courses online – many websites have GPX routes for download for great touring routes that you can find by Googling particular areas. For example, Italy has GPX files available for its EuroVelo routes at http://italy-cycling-guide.info/ . Once you’ve downloaded them, it’s easy to import into the ELEMNT app, though some GPX files may need to be simplified (see instructions above).

      Use the Wahoo app – The ELEMNT app has an option to search for a destination either by tapping it or searching for a name. This is very convenient, but in my experience, it does not give good directions. It tends to pick the absolute shortest path, ignoring cycling routes, road surface, etc. Hopefully they will improve this in future updates, as this is definitely the easiest option.

      Other options

      I considered many other options that may work for others, so here I will list them and explain why I decided not to use this option.

      Garmin cycle computers – I could not find any way to plan a route on the smartphone and send it to the Garmin without having a laptop. I tried everything I could think of, including importing GPX files to Garmin Connect website and then syncing over Bluetooth using the Connect app (very difficult and ridiculously buggy from a smartphone), using a USB OTG connector on my phone to connect the Garmin device via USB (couldn’t mount the file system in order to copy GPX routes), and lots of others, all ending in failure. If you are bringing a laptop with you, though, this might be a very good solution for you, as it’s relatively easy to copy a GPX file to the Garmin using a USB cable.

      Maps.me – This is definitely a great app to have with you on a cycling tour, especially because it has offline bicycle routing. However, as of this writing, you cannot export its directions to GPX files, so it’s impossible to get the directions on your GPS device. This means that you must mount your smartphone on your bike and follow the directions on the screen. This may work for some people who expect to have power every night to charge their phone, but since we are using solar many days, I found that Maps.me uses an extremely high amount of battery to do the routing and provide directions, so it would not work for us.

      Google maps – another must have app, of course, and it is possible to download offline map areas. However, when offline, you can only get driving directions, not cycling. Also, you would have to mount the smartphone on your bike, and while Google Maps uses significantly less power than Maps.me, it is still too much to keep charged by solar power every day.

      Paper maps – I know many tourists swear by paper maps, which require no batteries, are often available with water resistant coatings, and keep you free of technological distractions. There is definitely something to be said for this approach, but it was difficult for me to find good paper maps for the whole around-the-world trip that we have planned. It would have involved lots of research and stops at tourist offices, etc to collect all the maps we need, and they take up space and weight.

      Other apps I recommend for touring

      OsmAnd – a good, if not a little clunky, front end to the amazing and free OpenStreetMap maps. It includes cycling modes, routing, downloading offline areas, following GPX tracks, and tons more.

      Rome2Rio – great option for finding ferries, flights, public transportation, and other routes for those segments where you cannot or choose not to ride.

      DotTrax – developed by a friend of mine in San Diego, this Android app is a great replacement for a cycling computer with lots of options including combining multi-day tracks, and real-time wind direction reports so you know when you’ve got a headwind or tailwind. It also connects with wireless HRMs. If you will be using your phone as your GPS unit, I highly recommend this app for tracking your ride.

      Les mistrals!

      The mistral winds were blowing strong yesterday, so we were very happy to have a day off riding to spend with our friends sightseeing in Cassis and Marseilles. These northerly winds are known to be strong this time of year between winter and spring and can come and go.

      We had a great lunch in Cassis at a restaurant on the water, and for dinner, we made Mexican food (chicken tacos with pico de gallo, rice and beans, and margaritas) for our friends, a reminder of their visit to California.

      I think we’ve decided on our future route for next week. We are planning to cycle through the Gorges de Verdon and then head south to join the Cote d’Azur near Fréjus and continue along the coast from there. This means we will take four days instead of two to get to Antibes, but we will get to see both the Verdon region as well as the coast. I’ve updated our itinerary estimates on our route plan, and even with this, and with a more leisurely place through Italy, we have 7 extra days on our visa in case we need to use it.

      This morning we are off to Paris for one night!