Finally we left Panjim. Our package is stuck in customs who-know’s-where, but we had to get moving. 5 nights in Panjim is way too much unless you are on work or something. We had hoped it might prove to be a good long-stay place, but for us, it’s not. With the difficulties with transport, we felt stuck in one place, and it was not easy for us to meet people.
So, we left the hotel with our contact info. If/when the package arrives with our new cycling shorts & bibs, we will figure out how to get it, maybe leaving our bikes and taking a train back. Our one-year-old cycling shorts are thread-bare and almost transparent in spots, but we can put shorts over top of them to benefit from the much-needed padding without shocking anyone with views of our nether regions, so we can keep going.
Update on the taxis: a local told us that they just voted to require meters within the next 2 weeks for all taxis. I haven’t verified this myself, but I hope it’s correct; it will be a huge benefit for travelers here.
Today’s ride was really heavy in traffic, and light in encouragement. We got a few thumbs up, but overall people ignored us our just looked at us funny. A big change from the constant attention in Maharashtra. Navigating the increasing numbers of left-handed roundabouts (aka traffic circles, aka rotaries) is also proving to be a challenge, even for me, having lived four years in the Virgin Islands, where they drive on the left. Here, not only do they drive on the left, but only the most agressive drivers get priority, and it’s a bit of a challenge forcing your way into the rotary on a bicycle, but we are learning the magic power of an outstretched hand with your palm held open. Apparently this traffic-cop gesture trumps all Indian instincts and immediately gives us the right of way, no matter what.
The highlights of the day were our lunch stop at Tropical Spice Plantation and the beach hut we found for the night.
The spice plantation gives an interesting tour and includes a buffet lunch for ₹400 each. We saw how fenny is distilled, betel nuts are grown, along with dozens of other less-intoxicating spices from turmeric to allspice to cardamon and more. The buffet lunch was pretty good as well. They pointed to a place to put the bikes and said, “bike parking here,” which prompted us to ask, “do you get many cyclists?” “You’re the first!” Our guide later told us that Goa is starting to promote cycling for its health benefits as well as its low environmental impact, though, except for a few kids with fancy mountain bikes, we’ve only seen poorer working-class folks on bikes. We had a moment between us where we both agreed cycling is the best form of transportation for the environment and personal health. She also had lots of great insight on the health benefits of various spices as well. It seems India has a strong focus on health and wellness with its ayuverdic medicine, spices, vegetarian offerings, and availability of more healthy foods throughout India.
And then… I broke another nipple after lunch! I never did get the wheel in true after the last breakage, so maybe the wheel is a bit weaker now? In any event, that’s the 4th nipple to break in this wheel on this trip, two fixed by me, and two by bike shops. I don’t think it was built well to begin with, so perhaps I need to get it rebuilt or get a new wheel. At least it’s just the nipples; no broken spokes so far. We have another 6 nipple spares and a few spokes, and after that, it’s game over until we can find some Western bike parts. Bike mechanic friends, care to comment?
Good news is, it only took 25 minutes to fix this time, so we still got to the beach with plenty of time. We found a sign for beach huts and followed it down a sandy road to find a cute collection of very basic (and cheap) beach huts right on the beach. It’s perfect, and after being stuck in our hotel for 4 days, we both vowed to only spend time outside except when we are sleeping. After an amazing swim in the Indian Ocean, and after booking an oil massage for tomorrow, we will stay another day… What a life, and for a fraction of what we spend to live per day in San Diego.
It’s a fun eclectic crowd here, which makes it even more of a good time. Hippies from Europe living in another state of India (Kerala) on vacation, a fun guy from Sweden who talks your ear off, and a couple of gents from England playing pool, as well as a collection of couples and a few kids running around. All are in swim wear, and some look like professional sunbathers. After we got in our swim trunks, one guy agreed that our tan lines made it clear that we really are cycling through Asia. Super chill and perfect place to make home for a few days.
We talked to the Swedish guy about retirement options in Thailand and the rules there (Steve almost qualifies for a retirement visa!), and he responded saying you need to live outside the rules. You can retire anywhere and anytime you want. Don’t buy into what society tells you that you need to do. Best advice I’ve heard in a while…
A frame grab from the video that we hope makes it into the Maharashtra Tourism video! I believe this is their channel on YouTube.
A still to distill fenny, the local cashew liquor.
Monkey figurines at the spice plantation.
Spider at the spice plantation.
It’s really interesting that the advertisements here are painted on to houses and businesses, rather than just signs or posters. This one even color matches the place!
Creative!
Local Goan beer.
We took a trip to Old Goa, where we saw some of the old Portuguese churches.
We got red dots at the spice plantation!
My old Xero sandals were on their last legs, so I found some new ones! Very comfortable so far, and reasonably light.
So good to hear you are making adjustments and keeping your spirits up. Too bad about the shorts–a year? WOW.
It is becoming winter here. The high today may get to 30. Leaves have been trying to hang on but I suspect the next week will be their last hurrah. The colors have been somewhat sedated compared to years gone by. We had tornadoes last weekend in Indiana and specifically in Muncie. The historic Muncie Fieldhouse roof was damaged and quite a few residents were w/o power for a day or two.
We loved hearing about the cooking class. Wonderful way to get to know the area better and stay informed about the benefits of the food and spices. This makes your journey so interesting as most of us don’t get the full benefits of calories we consume in our daily diet.
Hope the bikes hold up to your expectations. You both are certainly giving them a real test.
The Bindi (red dot) symbolizes love. It was created as a means to worship one’s intellect.
Therefore, it was used by both men and women. Worship of the intellect was to ensure that thoughts, speech, actions, habits and ultimately one’s character becomes pure.
Makes me smile to know this. And to see you both wear it.
We love your posts. Be well and happy. Love, Joe & Betty <3
Those wheels have taken a beating compared to the average buyer whose bike just sit in the garage. It is still strange to break nipples. If the rim is straight and has no cracks I would replace all the nipples. If they are aluminum switch to brass. Aluminium nipples are for people who have bike shops nearby.